Monday, March 28, 2016

week11

Keying and 3d Printing



the bottom part that rests on the bed is called Raft. the little triangles are meant for easier process of lifting it off from the bed.

*sometimes putting a model on a printing bed is better at an angle rather than flat. Like a Form Labs printer.


-good FDM printer with an open source CURA software


Key

Female needs to be a little bigger than the male. By using inflate on deformation palette you can scale it precisely. 

Turn your mesh into a dynamesh. Choose the resolution that would maintain your sculpt and not weld. 
How is one piece would connect to another? Like an arm to a body? If you are doing articulation points, you can not just slice it. You can just go for the slicing if you don't need it to move, but you do that just for the safe of printing.
Make sure its water tight and there are no holes after you redynamesh. 
Use a Cube from the Train IMM as a key. Draw it out perfectly straight, holding the Shift key when drawing out the Transpose line before inserting the Cube.
Put the Cube to sit partially inside the body. Mask off everything expt for the face sticking out, have the Transpose sticking out from the center of that face-> use Scale to scale down the top plane. Add a sphere, so half of it sticks out of the scaled down small top point. ( Instead of inserting a sphere, you can use ZModeler brush and create half a sphere right out of the cube and it will be all one mesh and one group right away. Make sure the sphere is created dead center->insert Multiple Edges, set to 1)  It will help create tension so it won't fall out.
Then Redynamesh the Male part with the part its supposed to go with.

To create the Female part:

Copy the Male piece, place it under the subtool of the Body ( in case when you want to stick the Head into the Torso)
Inflate this Copy a little bit:cDeformation-> Inflate *3 
Turn on transparency to see how it will stick together and how much of a gap there is. Keep in mind the size of your print: 

Have the Torso and the Female Part visible. ( Name it!). Make the Female part a Subtractive boolean. 



Merge-> Merge Down. The merged part will appear white.  Then Redynamesh.

If it doesnt work-> Have only the Female Part visible-> go to Polygroups-> PG as a Dynamesh Sub and redynamesh. 


Once you done, check how pieces fit together with Transparency on. If you have geometry overlaping, like in holes that dynamesh redynameshed in a way you don't want to-> Duplicate the Head, move it below the Torso, turn on the boolean on the head and merge down-> it will use the Head to cut the shape you need in the torso. 

Knowing that you will keep using the Key through ought the Sculpt, go to the Key, pg it into one polygroup, right there make the female version by duplicating it and then inflating the top, regroup the Female. So now you have the Male PG and Female PG.  Make it an Insert Brush.



Lollipop Joint



Every Primitive has an initialize state. Pick the Cylinder, make it flat. On one side make a little bevel, crease PG. 
on the other side make an insert edge-> QMesh a small inner circle into a tube that sticks out. 






Make the Lollipop with the Cut


Turn into Dynamesh.
When you draw out an Insert Brush, you can make it a Negative by drawing out the IM and hold Alt. 
To make it sitting dead center-> duplicate the male part then go click Mesh to Brush. Make the squre the shape you need, Make the Booleen operation by merging down.
Make the Female part by inflating the original cylinder without the cut.
The piece you want to keep has to be a dynamesh, the piece you will cut with does not have to be Dynamesh. 
Now the Male will snap inside. Works well with MDF printer. With Object printers- you nee to look into materials.










Shoulder joint


A Sphere with a pin. A sphere goes to the hand. 
A Sphere with a lollipop inside and a pin going through both. 
You need to have a nice rounded portion for full articulation. 
* Get a Hand, insert a cylinder for the shoulder to get a nice clean line for the shoulder cut to be nice and rounded. Push in all the stuff of the cylinder inside the arm, the part that sticks out of the shoulder in the portion you don't need. The part you need is the edge, where the shoulder touches the body. Insert then the shoulder joint ( the pin sticks out towards the front, holds all parts together) . The pin will be used as a hole cutter, the Sphere- connects to the arm, the inner lollipop part- to the body. 
Duplicate the Joint.
Merge the sphere w Hole and the Arm, then use the inner lollipop cylinder as a cut out. Now you want to use the pin as a negative and cut the shape out of the arm.

Now going to the body. Dynamesh the body and use all this joint as a negative. To clean up in case all these little parts are separate and case some ugly stuff happening - make the sphere into a closed sphere to clean up.




App Crunch



Cut at where the apps are, Make the lower part of the torso a bit smaller, so the top can bend a bit. The pin goes in profile through the side. 







ZProject Brush


If you don't want to ruin your nice geometry, but want to cut out the female part. Posion the female part the way you want and have it as a separate subtool. The projection brush will project the mesh into whats underneath it. Select only the part you want to push in



in the last minutes of the video:










To print Hollow:
·       * Use Dynamesh.
·        * On dynamesh palette, press create shell.
·         *You can add thickness on the thickness slider.




Decimation Master







You can not send 10mil to print. 

-> Decimation Master.

Preprosess current - for ZBrush to look at the mesh and calculate. Once its done, hit Decimation Master. 
There will be no different visually. Well,shouldn't be.



Before you PreProcess:


Masking- will look at masked area and give it more triangles.

% of decimation - the amount of polygons that will go through. Decimater allows to go up and down during the session. The lower you can go without loosing the quality, the better. 


Freeze Borders- if you have some cuts, that you want to appear as welded. It will look like it is connected

Keep UVs - if you have UVs, it will keep it. Like what they do for gaming.

Use and Keep Polypaint - looks at where there is polypaint on model and will try keep as many triangles at those spots. (especially good if you will print with paint)



*You can use it for render and avoid all UVs/ Maps stuff. You can cut the dog in pieces, decimate the pieces with Keep Borders on. And you can Render it in like Renderman.










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